terça-feira, 30 de junho de 2020

Arubé. Coluna no caderno Paladar. Edição de 30 de junho de 2019


Pimentas e mandioca puba 

Hoje tem coluna no Paladar, do Estadão.  O texto está no site do Caderno, no jornal impresso e também aqui. 


Arubé. O molho do Brasil

Com a impossibilidade de bater perna fisicamente nessa quarentena, a gente refaz mentalmente as boas viagens, revisita detalhes dos lugares e valoriza ainda mais aquilo que já não se pode ver e ter com facilidade.  Agora sei com certa sofrência que se eu quiser repor meu estoque de arubé, vou ter que prepará-lo em casa. E já que temos aqui esse espaço, podemos fazer juntos.

Já conhecia de nome o arubé desde que o chef de cozinha Ofir Nobre de Oliveira o apresentou em um evento do Slow Food em Brasília, do qual participei há mais de dez anos.  Era um creme liso com cara de mostarda tal como a pasta que conhecemos mais comumente.  O sabor, ácido e picante, maravilhoso.
Desde então só tinha notícias desse molho por bibliografias diversas, com as definições mais variadas possíveis.  Faça você mesmo a experiência e procure a definição de arubé em buscadores na internet  - prefira o Google Acadêmico.  Em minhas poucas viagens pela Amazônia nunca tinha encontrado para comprar. E olhe que eu sempre procurava por ele.  Mas as Amazônias são várias e a gente vai aprendendo a se livrar das generalizações.  
Calhou, então, de eu ter que fazer um trabalho no começo de 2019, em Lábrea, Sul do estado do Amazonas. Assim que entrei no Mercado Municipal, templo a ser visitado em primeiro lugar em qualquer cidade por onde passo, me deparei com várias bancas vendendo arubé em garrafas pet, sempre junto de feijões, pimentas e tucupis.  Diferente de todo o meu imaginário sobre arubé, que fui construindo a partir do primeiro contato e de quase todas as descrições que tinha lido, ali arubé era um molho fluido, de coloração salmão e, em repouso, separado em duas fases.  Nos bares, nos restaurantes, nas mesas do mercado onde se comem peixes frescos assados na brasa, o arubé era presença constante.  Só não trouxe mais na mala porque o avião de pequeno porte com apenas nove lugares que faz o trajeto até o aeroporto de Porto Velho não comportava grandes volumes.
  A sorte é que o molho é tão comum em Lábrea, que muita gente sabe fazer e não se importa de ensinar.  Das explicações que ouvi, duas eram idênticas e permitiram a repetição por aqui com resultado bastante similar ao que provei por lá. Hoje é esse o tipo de arubé a que me apeguei e que deixo aqui a receita. Mas se for procurar saber mais, vai se deparar com informações às vezes conflitantes.
No livro Panorama da Alimentação Indígena – Comidas, bebidas e tóxicos na Amazônia brasileira (1974), o autor Nunes Pereira se refere ao arubé como uma “espécie de mostarda – é feito com tucupi, tapioca e pimenta triturada, ganhando consistência pastosa. Seu nome é arubé. Como o primeiro molho, referido aqui, nada fica a dever às criações, em matéria de mostarda, que devemos a franceses e alemães”.  Já no livro O Naturalista no Rio Amazonas, com registros do explorador inglês Henry Walter Bates, que esteve em viagem pela Amazônia recolhendo material zoológico e botânico para o Museu de História Natural de Londres, entre 1848 a 1859,  o tempero que se servia com os peixes é descrito como “um molho, em forma de pasta amarela, inteiramente novo para mim, chamado arubé, feito do suco venenoso da raiz da mandioca, fervido antes da precipitação do polvilho ou tapioca, e temperado com pimenta malagueta. É conservado em vasilhas de pedra durante algumas semanas, antes de ser usado, e é apetitoso condimento para o peixe.”
Outras descrições sequer mencionam a pimenta.  É o caso do catálogo A Arca do Gosto no Brasil (Slow Food Editore, 2017) que elenca alimentos, conhecimentos e histórias do patrimônio gastronômico no país.  Nele, o arubé é descrito como “um concentrado de tucupi (sumo da mandioca) usado pelos indígenas para conservar as caças e que, com o passar dos anos, foi deixando de ser produzido e consumido na maioria das tribos. É conhecido, inclusive, também como mostarda indígena”.   Mas na grande obra do Luiz da Camara Cascudo, História da alimentação no Brasil: cozinha brasileira (1983), o arubé aparece junto com o tucupi como dois molhos de destaque no extremo-norte do Brasil e em sua composição aparece a pimenta malagueta – “o arubé contem malagueta, sumo da mandioca fervido, sal e outras substâncias aromáticas, bem trituradas. O arubé em massa, também chamado arubé-de-sauvataia, além desses ingredientes contém tanajuras torradas e em pó”.  Outra descrição, agora em artigo de 1929, do Hermano Stradelli, Vocábulos da Língua Geral Português-Nheêngatu e Nheêngatu-Português, citado na própria obra do Cascudo, o molho é descrito como “massa de mandioca puba curada ao sol com pimenta malagueta, usada como tempero de comida” e cita ainda variações de grafia: arumé, arumbé e arubé. 
Como podemos ver, e aqui só registrei algumas das citações, o que as variações de arubé têm em comum é mesmo a mandioca, que pode ser mansa ou brava, pubada (deixada em água até amolecer) ou fresca ou ainda na forma de manipueira, o seu sumo ou o tucupi já pronto. O acréscimo de pimenta parece ser uma derivação natural e surge como parceria quase que obvia, já que as duas espécies coexistem em boa parte das culturas indígenas na América do Sul.
Embora não seja um molho tão comum como o tucupi, feito a partir da manipueira fermentada e temperada com pimenta, alfavaca, alho e coentro-de-pasto, o arubé pode ser encontrado em alguns mercados na região Norte. Em São Gabriel da Cachoeira, o arubé se parece com o que conheci, com a diferença que há a opção com saúva. Na última vez que estive em Manaus, estava no aeroporto, numa loja de lembranças, e me deparei com arubé industrializado, em embalagem plástica como as bisnagas de mostarda. Não resisti e comprei para provar. Um creme amarronzado, muito picante e saboroso. Na lista de ingredientes: massa puba, alho, polpa de tomate, cebola, sal, especiarias, pimenta murupi, conservante sorbato de potássio.  Pra mim foi uma novidade especialmente o tomate e o sorbato, já que o que se diz do arubé e o que pude comprovar é que depois de pronto não estraga nunca. Os meus, tanto os comprados em Lábrea quando o que fiz em casa, duraram muitos meses sem nenhuma alteração no aspecto ou no sabor.  As duas vendedoras com quem conversei, Maria das Graças Marques e Raimunda de Souza, não me passaram a fórmula exata, pois não há, já que quem faz pode ir dosando a ardência com proporções diferentes de pimentas ardidas e mansas e corrigindo a consistência com mais ou menos puba. Mas, com generosidade, me contaram exatamente como faziam e o que fiz em casa ficou muito parecido.  Lá é feito com mandioca mansa, conhecida simplesmente por macaxeira, pubada - os pedaços são deixados imersos em água em temperatura ambiente por vários dias até amolecer. Pode ser em potes de barro, tanques ou no rio, dentro de sacos, em água corrente. Para não ficar muito forte, mistura-se um tanto de pimenta-de-cheiro ou cheirosa com outro tanto de pimenta ardósia, nome genérico para as pimentas ardidas.  Elas são  picadas e aferventadas em água com alho. O líquido então é triturado e despejado ainda quente sobre a massa de mandioca fermentada que vai sendo escaldada e pressionada sobre a peneira.  Depois de pronto, nas garrafas, o aspecto é de um molho bifásico, com a massa de mandioca no fundo. Na hora de servir,  basta chacoalhar.  Porém, conforme o molho vai acabando, sobra na garrafa a parte mais densa e a consistência pode ser bem cremosa. Há quem coloque na hora do preparo, junto com o caldo das pimentas um pouco de água de urucum pra ficar um molho mais vermelho. Pode-se ainda deixar umas pimentas inteiras dentro da garrafa.  Geralmente é um molho de mesa e acompanha qualquer tipo de prato salgado, mas é indispensável para acompanhar peixes assados ou fritos. E, claro, serve para temperar sopas, caldos, cozidos, refogados de qualquer natureza.  Tabasco é bom até, mas prefiro Arubé.


Arubé à moda de Lábrea
2 xícaras (230 g)  de pimentas variadas ardidas e mansas (pimenta-de-cheiro, pimenta malagueta, pimenta murupi, dedo-de-moça etc) 
1 litro de água  (pode usar opcionalmente a água fervida com grãos de urucum e peneirada)
2 xícaras (300 g) de pedaços de mandioca (macaxeira, aipim) puba enxaguada  - descascada e deixada imersa em água, em temperatura ambiente, até amolecer
2 dentes de alho (opcional)
Sal a gosto

Faça em local aberto para evitar o vapor irritante das pimentas. Coloque as mandiocas, que devem estar bem amolecidas, sem os pavios, sobre uma peneira apoiada em uma tigela. Reserve. Lave bem as pimentas, tire os cabinhos, coloque numa panela com a água (e o alho, se for usar) e leve ao fogo até que amoleçam (cerca de 3 minutos). Bata aos poucos no liquidificador. Enquanto o líquido ainda está bem quente (se for preciso, volte ao fogo até ferver), despeje-o aos poucos sobre a mandioca, banhando toda ela, amassando bem com uma colher conforme vai escaldando.  Espere esfriar, misture bem e coloque garrafas PET pequenas, deixando espaço de 3 centímetros até a tampa. Aperte a garrafa até o líquido chegar na boca e feche bem. Deixe em temperatura ambiente e quando a garrafa estiver dura, estofada, desrosqueie devagar e deixe escapar o gás. Aperte de novo a garrafa e feche bem. Repita o procedimento por 3 a 4 dias ou até não formar mais gás. Se formar uma natinha branca por cima enquanto fermenta, não tem problema - basta chacoalhar para homogeneizar.  Quando parar de formar gás, pode misturar bem e passar para vidros limpos (ferva e deixe secar ao forno ou ao sol para maior garantia). Feche e use como molho de mesa ou como tempero para pratos cozidos.  Mantenha em temperatura ambiente, em local fresco, por prazo indeterminado. Ou guarde na geladeira pra ter certeza de que vai durar para sempre.
Rende:  1,2 litros

79 comentários:

Diego Manoel disse...

Depois de fermentar, o Arubé fica muito ácido?
Comprei um Sambal que é muito ácido, as vezes misturo com açúcar pra poder usar.

Akotirene Matos disse...

Uau!Aqui já virou vício. Mas vou fazer a receita a risca! Grata!

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Muito bom temperos e especiarias !!

Arturo Hassaï disse...

Olá Neide. Maravilhoso esse molho. Estava fazendo e me surgiu uma dúvida. A mandioca pubada é para passar toda pela peneira, incorporando ao molho, ou não? Grato pela receita e pelo blog

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Arturo Hassaï disse...

Oi Neide. Terminei de fazer a receita. Acabou que peneirei tudo, deixei fermentando, aí reduzi um pouco o molho e acrescentei manjericão, chicória do pará, coentro e cebolinha, pra pegar gosto. Depois peineirei novamente. Ficou otimo!

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At whatever point you are endeavoring to get to your Gmail account, by then it will demand your customer's accreditations like email address and mystery state. Most customers need to save mystery expressions and access them viably, anyway following two or three days they neglect to recollect it. In the event that you can't sign in to your Gmail account, by then you ought to guarantee that you enter the correct customer's accreditations and besides check the web accessibility. In case you actually ill-suited to sign in, by then contact Gmail customer service to fix it.

Ellamark13 disse...

Why failed to find specialist mystery express with Gmail customer service?

Gmail has a requirement for the specialist to get to all features and augmentation the work execution. It keeps revived occasionally to fix particular glitches. Without a doubt, it sends you warnings if there is any update open. If you can't find your Gmail mystery key, by then, you can simply get it from the Password decision. Moreover, guarantee there is a strong web affiliation. If you really fail to do it, by then chat with Gmail customer service for advantageous arrangements.

Daisy38456Rosa disse...

Why can't make another email account on Android with Gmail customer service?

Gmail application gives you a decision to use various email id on a singular mobile phone by adding them, be that as it may, you can get to only one by one. You need to pick the email id sometimes which one you need to get to. In case you can't make another email account on android then you should attest that you enter the correct nuances and select all the fundamental insistence spring up. If you really fronting the same, by then use Gmail customer service to decide it quickly.

Daisy38456Rosa disse...

Contemplating how to filter out dealerships on Facebook Marketplace focus on account of goof in image? Use consultancy's help.

In the event that you're encountering trouble in the image and you're thinking about how filter out dealerships on Facebook Marketplace focus, by then you can use the help to get the issue settled or you can realize the techniques that are referred to in the help place. Also, you can watch help vids on Youtube.


Gloria Jenkins disse...

Epson Connect Printer Setup is a utility designed to allow Epson Connect to print emails, documents, or images from any computer that can send emails.This utility is used to make Epson Connect so that any computer that can send an email can print emails, documents, or images from it.
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Daisy38456Rosa disse...


Why Is Gmail Down? Is There Any Solution?

Is Gmail Down? Don’t you know how to handle such kind of critical situation? You should first identify whether the problem related to Google server is taking place from your end or from server’s end. If it is from the server’s end, you can do anything as such issues can be sorted easily and automatically in no time.

Daisy38456Rosa disse...


Can't utilize the draft highlight of Gmail? Contact Gmail customer service.

The draft highlight of Gmail offers the client the chance to save and send the mail later. In any case, on the off chance that you can't utilize the segment, by then take a stab at finding the arrangement by methods for looking on the web or by inferring particular DIY accounts. Hoping to stay composed, you face an issue, by then contact Gmail customer service for help.

Unknown disse...

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Daisy38456Rosa disse...

Glitch in record add-on mess up considering ATT Yahoo login disappointment? Discover an assistance gathering.


On the off chance that some glitch creates in the ATT Yahoo login measure, by then it very well may be taken out by utilizing the tech help that the assistance pack needs to bring to the table or you can utilize the assistance that is given by the particular assistance site page pages that are accessible on the web. Regardless of that particular assistance vid shows are accessible on Youtube.

Daisy38456Rosa disse...


How to get money off Cash App without bank account on a PDA beginning late? Will maintain for help.

Cash App makes your exchange particularly direct from your far off. Thus, to see how to get money off Cash App without bank account you need to guarantee that you did not attempt to utilize any pre-stacked card there. Further, if you need help, then you can use the assistance of the vid gallery in Youtube and proceed with solving your issue.

Elizbeth644 disse...


How to get money off Cash App without bank account on a PDA beginning late? Will maintain for help.

Cash App makes your exchange particularly direct from your far off. Thus, to see how to get money off Cash App without bank account you need to guarantee that you did not attempt to utilize any pre-stacked card there. Further, if you need help, then you can use the assistance of the vid gallery in Youtube and proceed with solving your issue.

يحي سامي disse...

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يحي سامي disse...

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Daisy38456Rosa disse...

How To Get Money Off Cash App Without Card? Find An Answer

' How To Get Money Off Cash App Without Card?’ is a common query. To know an apt and suitable answer to such kind of query, you will have to navigate to the official help and support section of the Cash app. besides, if you face any issue with the same, you should contact the experts to find out the solution, from the comfort of your home.

Carl Wood disse...

The printer's error,offline issue occurs due to multiple reasons like outdated software, hardware problem, or network connection errors. To resolve the printer in error state problem, you will first have to ensure the wires and cables at their places. Secondly, you should keep the printer drivers updated as it will help you debug various printer issues. Go to the support website, log in to your Printer account, and check the latest drivers. Download the same on your PC and start using your printer. If you still see an error state issue in the printer, open the printer cartridge access door and make sure the paper is not stuck inside. If you find any foreign material, then eradicate it. Besides, the empty or low ink cartridge sometimes creates an error state problem in Printer . Check them and reinstall the cartridges if needed. Hopefully, these steps will help you resolve the error state issue.
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Antonio nee disse...

The web network should be ground-breaking on the off chance that you will pick the alternative get my money back from Cash App. In any case, in case there's an issue while you're choosing it, by then you can go to the assistance objections for additional help. You can similarly use the help network for answers for fix the issue that you're defying.

Unknown disse...


Facebook help care number if I need to open a record on Facebook.
Facebook is the most venerated casual correspondence site and along these lines everyone needs to get related with Facebook. So in the event that you can't open a Facebook record and need to show up atFacebook help for assist then you with implying any youtube DIY video and you will have the alternative to open your record in the blink of an eye.

nova smith disse...

If Cash App Payment Failed, Learn How to Charge Cash App Dispute
Dispute Fees: If in case the Cash Transfer Application fails, you have the option to file a dispute due to false allegations. Although, You can still request a refund for the claim, but if it is denied, contact your bank and file a claim for the fee. If your Cash App Payment Failed You can file a dispute by sending a letter or calling Cash Application Customer Service by visiting our website.

Adam Lee disse...

Although the market is anticipated to witness steady growth owing to the aforementioned benefits, high installation and maintenance costs, high-energy consumption, and other operational challenges can hinder the HVAC market globally.

Anna smith disse...

If you’re looking for how to delete cash app account, you’re in the right place. However, deleting your account is very simple. When processing is complete, tap the account menu icon. It will look like an avatar in other known social media. tap "Support". This will display a menu of options - tap “Something else”. Then tap "Account Settings" and you're done. Then tap "Close Cashier Account." contact us on our website for further assistance with cash requests.

Anna smith disse...

As a matter of fact, Square app is a PCI information security standard level 1 agreeable, so your installment is scrambled here as start to finish. Aside from this, Cash app email additionally secure to send an email for any issue. However, before reimbursing any email, you have to check it well indeed.

shweta chauhan disse...

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Unknown disse...


Take Assistance If Not Aware Of How To Unfriend Someone On Facebook
If you are one of those who are looking forward to getting cent-percent assistance from a certified team of professionals about How To Unfriend Someone On Facebook, approach them first. Here, you have to walk through the instructions that they have suggested and as a result, you will be able to unfriend someone with ease.

Unknown disse...


Take Assistance If Not Aware Of How To Unfriend Someone On Facebook
If you are one of those who are looking forward to getting cent-percent assistance from a certified team of professionals about How To Unfriend Someone On Facebook, approach them first. Here, you have to walk through the instructions that they have suggested and as a result, you will be able to unfriend someone with ease.

Daisy38456Rosa disse...

Compelling strides for How to unblock someone on messenger:

Executing the viable advances is important to figure out how to unblock someone on messenger. Impeding someone on Facebook is to keep that person from getting to the record; Facebook clients may unblock the hindered person in the event that they wish to allow them to discover their record without any inconveniences. The solution sources ought to be coordinated in such a way that can help clients to take moment activities to unblock a Facebook account.