terça-feira, 30 de junho de 2020

Arubé. Coluna no caderno Paladar. Edição de 30 de junho de 2019


Pimentas e mandioca puba 

Hoje tem coluna no Paladar, do Estadão.  O texto está no site do Caderno, no jornal impresso e também aqui. 


Arubé. O molho do Brasil

Com a impossibilidade de bater perna fisicamente nessa quarentena, a gente refaz mentalmente as boas viagens, revisita detalhes dos lugares e valoriza ainda mais aquilo que já não se pode ver e ter com facilidade.  Agora sei com certa sofrência que se eu quiser repor meu estoque de arubé, vou ter que prepará-lo em casa. E já que temos aqui esse espaço, podemos fazer juntos.

Já conhecia de nome o arubé desde que o chef de cozinha Ofir Nobre de Oliveira o apresentou em um evento do Slow Food em Brasília, do qual participei há mais de dez anos.  Era um creme liso com cara de mostarda tal como a pasta que conhecemos mais comumente.  O sabor, ácido e picante, maravilhoso.
Desde então só tinha notícias desse molho por bibliografias diversas, com as definições mais variadas possíveis.  Faça você mesmo a experiência e procure a definição de arubé em buscadores na internet  - prefira o Google Acadêmico.  Em minhas poucas viagens pela Amazônia nunca tinha encontrado para comprar. E olhe que eu sempre procurava por ele.  Mas as Amazônias são várias e a gente vai aprendendo a se livrar das generalizações.  
Calhou, então, de eu ter que fazer um trabalho no começo de 2019, em Lábrea, Sul do estado do Amazonas. Assim que entrei no Mercado Municipal, templo a ser visitado em primeiro lugar em qualquer cidade por onde passo, me deparei com várias bancas vendendo arubé em garrafas pet, sempre junto de feijões, pimentas e tucupis.  Diferente de todo o meu imaginário sobre arubé, que fui construindo a partir do primeiro contato e de quase todas as descrições que tinha lido, ali arubé era um molho fluido, de coloração salmão e, em repouso, separado em duas fases.  Nos bares, nos restaurantes, nas mesas do mercado onde se comem peixes frescos assados na brasa, o arubé era presença constante.  Só não trouxe mais na mala porque o avião de pequeno porte com apenas nove lugares que faz o trajeto até o aeroporto de Porto Velho não comportava grandes volumes.
  A sorte é que o molho é tão comum em Lábrea, que muita gente sabe fazer e não se importa de ensinar.  Das explicações que ouvi, duas eram idênticas e permitiram a repetição por aqui com resultado bastante similar ao que provei por lá. Hoje é esse o tipo de arubé a que me apeguei e que deixo aqui a receita. Mas se for procurar saber mais, vai se deparar com informações às vezes conflitantes.
No livro Panorama da Alimentação Indígena – Comidas, bebidas e tóxicos na Amazônia brasileira (1974), o autor Nunes Pereira se refere ao arubé como uma “espécie de mostarda – é feito com tucupi, tapioca e pimenta triturada, ganhando consistência pastosa. Seu nome é arubé. Como o primeiro molho, referido aqui, nada fica a dever às criações, em matéria de mostarda, que devemos a franceses e alemães”.  Já no livro O Naturalista no Rio Amazonas, com registros do explorador inglês Henry Walter Bates, que esteve em viagem pela Amazônia recolhendo material zoológico e botânico para o Museu de História Natural de Londres, entre 1848 a 1859,  o tempero que se servia com os peixes é descrito como “um molho, em forma de pasta amarela, inteiramente novo para mim, chamado arubé, feito do suco venenoso da raiz da mandioca, fervido antes da precipitação do polvilho ou tapioca, e temperado com pimenta malagueta. É conservado em vasilhas de pedra durante algumas semanas, antes de ser usado, e é apetitoso condimento para o peixe.”
Outras descrições sequer mencionam a pimenta.  É o caso do catálogo A Arca do Gosto no Brasil (Slow Food Editore, 2017) que elenca alimentos, conhecimentos e histórias do patrimônio gastronômico no país.  Nele, o arubé é descrito como “um concentrado de tucupi (sumo da mandioca) usado pelos indígenas para conservar as caças e que, com o passar dos anos, foi deixando de ser produzido e consumido na maioria das tribos. É conhecido, inclusive, também como mostarda indígena”.   Mas na grande obra do Luiz da Camara Cascudo, História da alimentação no Brasil: cozinha brasileira (1983), o arubé aparece junto com o tucupi como dois molhos de destaque no extremo-norte do Brasil e em sua composição aparece a pimenta malagueta – “o arubé contem malagueta, sumo da mandioca fervido, sal e outras substâncias aromáticas, bem trituradas. O arubé em massa, também chamado arubé-de-sauvataia, além desses ingredientes contém tanajuras torradas e em pó”.  Outra descrição, agora em artigo de 1929, do Hermano Stradelli, Vocábulos da Língua Geral Português-Nheêngatu e Nheêngatu-Português, citado na própria obra do Cascudo, o molho é descrito como “massa de mandioca puba curada ao sol com pimenta malagueta, usada como tempero de comida” e cita ainda variações de grafia: arumé, arumbé e arubé. 
Como podemos ver, e aqui só registrei algumas das citações, o que as variações de arubé têm em comum é mesmo a mandioca, que pode ser mansa ou brava, pubada (deixada em água até amolecer) ou fresca ou ainda na forma de manipueira, o seu sumo ou o tucupi já pronto. O acréscimo de pimenta parece ser uma derivação natural e surge como parceria quase que obvia, já que as duas espécies coexistem em boa parte das culturas indígenas na América do Sul.
Embora não seja um molho tão comum como o tucupi, feito a partir da manipueira fermentada e temperada com pimenta, alfavaca, alho e coentro-de-pasto, o arubé pode ser encontrado em alguns mercados na região Norte. Em São Gabriel da Cachoeira, o arubé se parece com o que conheci, com a diferença que há a opção com saúva. Na última vez que estive em Manaus, estava no aeroporto, numa loja de lembranças, e me deparei com arubé industrializado, em embalagem plástica como as bisnagas de mostarda. Não resisti e comprei para provar. Um creme amarronzado, muito picante e saboroso. Na lista de ingredientes: massa puba, alho, polpa de tomate, cebola, sal, especiarias, pimenta murupi, conservante sorbato de potássio.  Pra mim foi uma novidade especialmente o tomate e o sorbato, já que o que se diz do arubé e o que pude comprovar é que depois de pronto não estraga nunca. Os meus, tanto os comprados em Lábrea quando o que fiz em casa, duraram muitos meses sem nenhuma alteração no aspecto ou no sabor.  As duas vendedoras com quem conversei, Maria das Graças Marques e Raimunda de Souza, não me passaram a fórmula exata, pois não há, já que quem faz pode ir dosando a ardência com proporções diferentes de pimentas ardidas e mansas e corrigindo a consistência com mais ou menos puba. Mas, com generosidade, me contaram exatamente como faziam e o que fiz em casa ficou muito parecido.  Lá é feito com mandioca mansa, conhecida simplesmente por macaxeira, pubada - os pedaços são deixados imersos em água em temperatura ambiente por vários dias até amolecer. Pode ser em potes de barro, tanques ou no rio, dentro de sacos, em água corrente. Para não ficar muito forte, mistura-se um tanto de pimenta-de-cheiro ou cheirosa com outro tanto de pimenta ardósia, nome genérico para as pimentas ardidas.  Elas são  picadas e aferventadas em água com alho. O líquido então é triturado e despejado ainda quente sobre a massa de mandioca fermentada que vai sendo escaldada e pressionada sobre a peneira.  Depois de pronto, nas garrafas, o aspecto é de um molho bifásico, com a massa de mandioca no fundo. Na hora de servir,  basta chacoalhar.  Porém, conforme o molho vai acabando, sobra na garrafa a parte mais densa e a consistência pode ser bem cremosa. Há quem coloque na hora do preparo, junto com o caldo das pimentas um pouco de água de urucum pra ficar um molho mais vermelho. Pode-se ainda deixar umas pimentas inteiras dentro da garrafa.  Geralmente é um molho de mesa e acompanha qualquer tipo de prato salgado, mas é indispensável para acompanhar peixes assados ou fritos. E, claro, serve para temperar sopas, caldos, cozidos, refogados de qualquer natureza.  Tabasco é bom até, mas prefiro Arubé.


Arubé à moda de Lábrea
2 xícaras (230 g)  de pimentas variadas ardidas e mansas (pimenta-de-cheiro, pimenta malagueta, pimenta murupi, dedo-de-moça etc) 
1 litro de água  (pode usar opcionalmente a água fervida com grãos de urucum e peneirada)
2 xícaras (300 g) de pedaços de mandioca (macaxeira, aipim) puba enxaguada  - descascada e deixada imersa em água, em temperatura ambiente, até amolecer
2 dentes de alho (opcional)
Sal a gosto

Faça em local aberto para evitar o vapor irritante das pimentas. Coloque as mandiocas, que devem estar bem amolecidas, sem os pavios, sobre uma peneira apoiada em uma tigela. Reserve. Lave bem as pimentas, tire os cabinhos, coloque numa panela com a água (e o alho, se for usar) e leve ao fogo até que amoleçam (cerca de 3 minutos). Bata aos poucos no liquidificador. Enquanto o líquido ainda está bem quente (se for preciso, volte ao fogo até ferver), despeje-o aos poucos sobre a mandioca, banhando toda ela, amassando bem com uma colher conforme vai escaldando.  Espere esfriar, misture bem e coloque garrafas PET pequenas, deixando espaço de 3 centímetros até a tampa. Aperte a garrafa até o líquido chegar na boca e feche bem. Deixe em temperatura ambiente e quando a garrafa estiver dura, estofada, desrosqueie devagar e deixe escapar o gás. Aperte de novo a garrafa e feche bem. Repita o procedimento por 3 a 4 dias ou até não formar mais gás. Se formar uma natinha branca por cima enquanto fermenta, não tem problema - basta chacoalhar para homogeneizar.  Quando parar de formar gás, pode misturar bem e passar para vidros limpos (ferva e deixe secar ao forno ou ao sol para maior garantia). Feche e use como molho de mesa ou como tempero para pratos cozidos.  Mantenha em temperatura ambiente, em local fresco, por prazo indeterminado. Ou guarde na geladeira pra ter certeza de que vai durar para sempre.
Rende:  1,2 litros

91 comentários:

Diego Manoel disse...

Depois de fermentar, o Arubé fica muito ácido?
Comprei um Sambal que é muito ácido, as vezes misturo com açúcar pra poder usar.

Akotirene Matos disse...

Uau!Aqui já virou vício. Mas vou fazer a receita a risca! Grata!

MEGGASABER BLOG disse...

Muito bom temperos e especiarias !!

Arturo Hassaï disse...

Olá Neide. Maravilhoso esse molho. Estava fazendo e me surgiu uma dúvida. A mandioca pubada é para passar toda pela peneira, incorporando ao molho, ou não? Grato pela receita e pelo blog

Arturo Hassaï disse...

Oi Neide. Terminei de fazer a receita. Acabou que peneirei tudo, deixei fermentando, aí reduzi um pouco o molho e acrescentei manjericão, chicória do pará, coentro e cebolinha, pra pegar gosto. Depois peineirei novamente. Ficou otimo!

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Unknown disse...

parece com o tucupi, que é a fermentação da macaxeira no processo da fabricação da farinha aqui no amazonas.

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Dial Helpline Number To Get My Money Back From Cash App
If some issues related to your Cash app account take place while trying to Get My Money Back From Cash App, don’t wander for finding a right solution. Simply have a close interaction with a technical department of Cash App customer care executives who will assist you out in every possible manner.

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Cash App is one of the most popular ways to transfer money to people online. It’s easy to send money to other people using their mobile app. However, sometimes it’s necessary for you to request a refund from a Cash App transaction.

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Load Money Cash App Card disse...

Login to your Cash app account using the phone number and initiate the Cash App Card activation process. There are two options i.e. QR Code method or CVV Method, through which you activate your Cash Card. Now, go to the Activate Cash Card tab and scan the QR Code or enter the CVV Pin and expiry date to activate the Cash Card.

Read More :- activate cash app card || cash app balance

Lesa Nancy disse...

The desired amount will be added to your account based on the information provided by you. Just check your account balance on Cash App to acknowledge the payment. After that, you can continue with your Cash Card payments at stores and online merchants. At any point, if you find it difficult to deal with Cash App, contact customer service to get help.

Read More :- where can i load my cash app card

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Tips to approach for Cash app free money code without human verification:
The approach in the right direction is the most vital strategy. Being a cash app user, you can talk to the cash app service team for handling the requirement. now, if you think that how you can have the Cash App Free Money Code Without Human Verification then just create a circle of your friends and send them referral code. It will work to achieve what you expect from using the cash app.

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Most important thing is to Send Money from Zelle to Cash App. It is based on certain tactics that you have to follow as per the needs. That will work for sure to handle the transactional system from Zelle to the cash app. apart from such a factor; users may also learn the methods that are concrete to the management of the entire system.

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Hi, I am Sofi Hayat from New York, USA. I am a Cash App technical expert. I can help you to cash app bank Name. Usually, users of Cash App come with queries like how to cash app bank Name but they can follow related techniques like accessing Cash App and checking the option to borrow money through prescribed steps.

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What Is A Cashtag disse...

If you are not even aware of What Is A Cashtag and you would like to find out the exact details about the same, you should simply go to the official help and support section without making any delay or you can approach the geeks of the Cash App department as quickly as possible.

jamesaddes disse...

How To Borrow Money From Cash App And Find An Affordable Repayment Plan?
You don’t need to worry if you would like to know everything about How To Borrow Money From Cash App. The borrow feature is about providing a short term loan up to $200 to the eligible Cash App account holder. To check whether you are eligible or not, you have to go to your banking section where you can see the ‘Borrow’ option. However, if you are unable to see the borrow option, you are not eligible to take a loan from Cash App.
https://www.7qasearch.net/blog/how-to-borrow-money-from-cash-app/

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If You are using Send and Receive Money on Anonymously and facing issus with
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If you’re stuck with overdraft cash app ?
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