sexta-feira, 9 de outubro de 2020

Fermento de garrafa . Fermento líquido . Fermento de cristo. Para pães fotos. Coluna do Paladar. Edição de 11 de outubro de 2020

 


Eu sei, domingo ainda não chegou. Mas o texto será publicado no jornal de domingo, de modo que dá tempo de comprar o seu. Mas já está lá no site do caderno Paladar pra quem é assinante. 

De qualquer forma, deixo o texto completo aqui. 


Fermento de garrafa

Neide Rigo

A pandemia reforçou a tendência dos lindos pães de fermentação natural com levain – o fermento fofo feito de água e farinha , tanto que o movimento ganhou o apelido de pãodemia. Tirando a tristeza do motivo do confinamento, fazer pão tem sido um alento para suportar os dias duros e abrir a porta do forno sem dúvida ativa nossos sistemas de recompensa de uma forma saudável.  

Esses pães viraram mania internacional e por aqui às vezes até esquecemos a geolocalização das nossas massas. São sourdoughs ou pain au levain, de preferência fermentados no banneton - a cestinha de cipó francesa, com shape e preshape, de preferência assado no forno holandês ou dutch oven, a velha e boa panela de ferro e, se possível em formato batard pra fazer pestanas bem abertas e muitos alvéolos, objeto de desejo de padeiros profissionais e amadores.

Agora pão voltou a ser sinônimo de farinha, água e sal dos primórdios. Para os puristas, todos aqueles enriquecidos com açúcar, manteiga, gemas e leite, que nossas mães e avós faziam em casa e chamavam simplesmente de pão doce, na verdade não podem ser chamados de pão. Seriam variações de brioches franceses.  Mas se pão de leite, pão sovado, pão de batata, pão de torresmo, pão de cristo e tantos outros perderam a alcunha, eu já não sei como chamá-los.  Só sei existe entre nós um imaginário coletivo baseado nos costumes onde nem todo pão enriquecido é brioche, nem todo pão em forma de trança é uma chalá, o pão consumido no shabat e festas judaicas.

E, sim, podemos fazer pães macios para sanduíches sem precisar ser um shokupan, o pão de leite fofo japonês. De qualquer forma, os que andam fazendo sucesso entre os padeiros, além dos pães verdadeiros, rústicos e mais ácidos e firmes, são esses pães internacionais macios de crosta dourada e lustrosa feitos com ovos, leite e manteiga.

Mas quem se lembra dos nossos pães de cristo desses interiores todos ou daqueles cuja isca era uma bolinha beliscada da massa pronta e guardada na lata de farinha até a próxima fornada?  Ou ainda dos pães coloniais do Sul feitos com fermento de batatinha que muitas vezes não saiam de cima do fogão de lenha onde fermentavam continuamente depois da fornada diária?  Todos fofos, dourados, levedados naturalmente. Ou seja, fermentação natural não é só sourdough e nossos pães são macios por natureza.

Por isso, ando animada para fazer e comer o pão de cristo que era moda no século passado, anos 70, 80. Lembro-me da doação e da circulação desse fermento líquido poderoso entre parentes e vizinhos. A gente recebia uma garrafa com o fermento e um papelzinho com instruções de reforma e receita do pão. Ninguém ousava mudar nada, afinal era o Pão de Cristo. A instrução era que, depois de reformado e aumentado, resultasse em 1 litro de fermento. Duas xícaras eram usadas para fazer um pão com um quilo de farinha, uma xícara deveria ser doada para que o presenteado fizesse o mesmo e a xícara restante deveria repousar na geladeira até o próximo pão.  Era um tipo de corrente em tempos pré-modernos.  Como tudo isso começou e porque passou a se chamar pão de cristo, como ainda é conhecido em muitas famílias até hoje, eu não consegui descobrir, mas minha tese é a de que começou num curso de pão de alguma igreja e, com a orientação de compartilhar, a receita viralizou, afinal quem seria o primeiro a quebrar a corrente com um nome sagrado?  Ainda mais que era um esquema horizontal sem promessas, sem envolver dinheiro, sem grandes perdas além de uns poucos gramas de farinha, sal e açúcar. Mesmo assim, uma corrente do bem que cedo ou tarde esgota, afinal chega uma hora e a gente já não tem ninguém a quem doar – porque todos já têm e pra manter um fermento há que se ter disciplina.   Há uns 15 anos a onda havia voltado e eu mesma ganhei, fiz alguns pães, compartilhei, mas não foi por falta de crença nem de amigos que o abandonei – era falta de tempo mesmo.

Agora tenho visto novamente muita gente interessada nesse fermento natural que produz pães grandes, vistosos, corados, com perfume de padaria.  Como leva açúcar e sal, é bom para fazer aqueles filões com massa levemente adoçada propícia ao crescimento e ao dourado, ótimos para sanduíches, ainda mais se o fizermos em forma retangular. O sal ajuda a controlar a fermentação e a criar um meio seletivo para o crescimento das bactérias láticas e leveduras.  Não sei qual é a composição biológica deste tipo de fermento - há várias pesquisas publicadas com as espécies mais comuns de bactérias e leveduras encontradas no levain, mas não encontrei nada sobre esse fermento líquido.  Como as diferentes leveduras e bactérias têm suas preferências em relação a composição do meio,  temperatura, salinidade, acidez e até consistência,  é de se esperar que tenhamos uma população fermentativa totalmente diferente do levain feito apenas com farinha e água e consistência mais densa.  Pelo perfume agradável de cerveja, suponho que a predominância seja de Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a mesma dos sachês que compramos no mercado.

Movida pela saudade dos pães de minhas tias e avó assados no forno de lenha, e na ausência de doadores por perto, resolvi partir para a criação de um exemplar do zero.  Munida de rabiscos da época em que cheguei a fazer e de novas pesquisas, cheguei a uma fórmula fácil para qualquer pessoa começar e manter além de se ajustar facilmente a qualquer receita – menos naqueles pães rústicos que levam apenas água, farinha e sal. Testei várias medidas, sem muita variação, mas escolhi aquela que me permite fazer um pão fofo tendo pleno domínio da quantidade de açúcar e sal que preciso descontar.

O engraçado é que encontrei receitas diferentes para o mesmo resultado e em todas elas é comum lermos as recomendações do tipo: “não mexa na receita, se não, dá errado”, “não chacoalhe a garrafa, se não, não dá certo”, “não deixe de reformar a cada 7 dias, se não, ele morre”, coisas assim.  No meu caso, cheguei a conclusões de que podemos sim alterar a receita para mais ou menos sem prejuízos, de que podemos sim chacoalhar a garrafa desde que não a tenha vedado hermeticamente – ou, claro, pode explodir, e de que podemos sim deixar por até 15 dias sem reformar e tudo bem.  Estou fazendo testes para ver se podemos estender esse tempo – deixei só uma pequena mostra na geladeira e vou reformar daqui a um mês.  Mas por 15 dias já deixei várias vezes e tenho feito uma receita bem básica de pão para sanduíche, com formato do shokupan. Só que não usei ovo, manteiga e leite e ainda assim continuou fofo por causa do azeite que passei a usar.

Embora tenha começado um do zero, resolvi iniciar dois outros que também deram certo: Em um deles usei 1 colher de sopa do meu levain, 9 colheres (sopa) de farinha de trigo sem fermento, 4 e meia colheres (sopa) de açúcar, 3 colheres (chá) de sal e água até completar 750 ml. Chacoalhei bem (pode misturar com mixer), coloquei numa garrafa pet de refrigerante (e não de água) de 2 litros, rosqueei e esperei 12 horas em temperatura ambiente (26 °C) – ou até formar uma nata de farinha por cima e a garrafa estofar.  Na outra versão, em vez de usar levain, acrescentei  meia colher (chá) de fermento granulado. De resto, tudo igual. E depois pode ser reformado só com farinha, água, sal e açúcar e mantido como mostro a seguir.     

Mas para começar um do zero, veja como fiz:

Fermento de garrafa do zero

Opcional. Para facilitar, faça um medidor: num vidro de boca larga com tampa, com capacidade para cerca de um litro, coloque água até dar 750 ml ou g (de preferência, use balança) e marque com caneta definitiva.  Marque também 250 ml e 500 ml. Você pode guardar esse vidro medidor para usar sempre que for reformar seu fermento.

Coloque no vidro medidor ou em outro recipiente 9 colheres (sopa) de farinha de trigo sem fermento, 4 ½ colheres (sopa) de açúcar e 3 colheres (chá) de sal – medidas padronizadas e rasas.  Despeje um pouco de água fria e filtrada suficiente para misturar os ingredientes. Complete com mais água até chegar à marca dos 750 ml. Misture bem – se quiser use mixer. Ou rosqueie a tampa do vidro medidor, se estiver usando, chacoalhe bem pra ficar bem misturado.  Pronto, você terá 3 xícaras de mistura pra fermentar. 

Agora você tem duas opções. Ou passe para uma garrafa de vidro com capacidade para um litro ou mais e feche, sem vedar totalmente, com rolha ou tampa de rosquear. Mas lembre-se de não vedar totalmente porque quando está usando vidro é importante que o gás formado escape lentamente à medida que ocorre a fermentação.  Se estiver vedada totalmente, a garrafa poderá explodir. 

Outra opção, que é mais segura, é usar uma garrafa pet de refrigerante com capacidade para 2 litros. Nesse caso, poderá fechar totalmente. Para garantir, esprema a garrafa e feche bem. A garrafa ficará amassada. Em ambos os casos, deixe fermentar por 7 dias ou mais em local fresco. Quando estiver pronta, a farinha que estava no fundo passa a boiar. No caso da garrafa pet, ela estará bem estofada, dura, cheia de gás. Basta desrosquear devagar a tampa para que o gás saia lentamente sem explodir igual refrigerante quente.   O líquido terá perfume de cerveja. Se precisar, deixe mais alguns dias.

Agora você já tem 3 xícaras de fermento. Se quiser, já pode doar uma, fazer pão com outra  e guardar a restante como isca na geladeira, dentro de um vidro com tampa de rosca ou garrafa pet, mas em ambos os casos sem rosquear totalmente para que o gás formado saia e não exploda. Antes da divisão, mexa bem para homogeneizar.

O ideal é reformar pelo menos uma vez por semana, para que não fique muito ácido. E se preferir, reforme uma vez antes de usar pela primeira vez.

 

Como reformar

Você pode triplicar ou até quadruplicar seu fermento dependendo da quantidade de pão que quer fazer. Mantenha na geladeira só uma xícara e com ela poderá fazer até 4 xícaras.  Vou dar aqui o exemplo de como reformar para ter 3 xícaras no total. Assim pode fazer o pão com uma xícara, guardar outra e ainda doar a outra.  Mas multiplique sua xícara proporcionalmente de acordo com sua necessidade.   

1 xícara de isca (a que fica guardada na geladeira)

6 colheres (sopa) de farinha de trigo branca

3 colheres (sopa) de açúcar

2 colheres (chá) de sal

Água filtrada e fria até completar 750 ml

Misture tudo muito bem – pode ir colocando a água aos poucos ou se quiser, coloque no vidro medidor, feche e chacoalhe bem,  ou ainda bata no liquidificador ou use mixer.  Passe para uma garrafa Pet de refrigerante com capacidade para 2 litros, aperte, feche bem e deixe em temperatura de cerca de 26 °C, por cerca de 8 horas ou durante uma noite – vai formar uma nata de farinha fermentada na superfície e a garrafa vai ficar estofada e dura.  Se quiser, passe para uma garrafa de vidro sem esquecer que não pode vedar totalmente. Se estiver muito frio, coloque numa caixa térmica com uma canela de água quente junto para manter o ambiente aquecido.

Está pronto para usar em qualquer receita de pão – basta substituir a água da receita pelo fermento de garrafa, na proporção de duas xícaras do fermento reformado e ativo para cada quilo de farinha  - complete com água ou leite até dar o ponto.  Só não se esqueça de descontar o sal e o açúcar - cada xícara de fermento já terá 1 ½  colher (sopa) de açúcar e 1 colher (chá) de sal.




Pão fofo com fermento de garrafa

250 ml de fermento de garrafa reformado e ativo

50 ml de água fria (ou mais, se necessário)

50 g de azeite de oliva ou algum tipo de óleo

Meia colher (chá) de sal – 3 g

1 colher (sopa) de açúcar ou mel

Meio quilo de farinha de trigo branca sem fermento

 

Coloque o fermento em uma tigela, junte a água, o azeite, o sal e o açúcar. Misture bem e junte a farinha.  Misture bem até ficar uma massa bem homogênea. Se precisar, junte um pouco mais de água para ficar uma massa macia que se solte das mãos. Cubra com pano úmido, espere 10 minutos e sove por cerca de 10 minutos ou  até a massa ficar bem lisa – se quiser, bata por 5 minutos na batedeira.   Cubra com pano úmido e deixe em temperatura ambiente (26 ºC) até fermentar e dobrar de volume – de 3 a 4 horas. Se quiser, nesse tempo, faça dobras na massa de meia em meia hora para reforçar o glúten e uniformizar a temperatura.  Pese a massa e divida em três partes iguais.  Faça bolas com elas, cubra com pano úmido e espere 15 minutos para que fiquem relaxadas.  Com um rolo, abra amassa em tiras de mais ou menos 8 por 25 centímetros e enrole como rocambole, prendendo bem as pontas.  Unte com manteiga uma forma de pão de 10 cm de largura por 10 cm de altura e 30 centímetros de comprimento e coloque os três rolos de massa com as dobras para baixo e deixando espaço entre eles. Cubra com pano úmido e espere dobrar de volume ou crescerem até a borda da forma  - cerca de 4 horas. Se preferir, asse os pães em assadeira comum.  E se quiser, faça um único pão e coloque na forma.

Na hora de assar, misture bem um ovo com uma colher (sopa) de leite e pincele sobre a superfície do pão.

Se o seu forno tem resistência em cima e embaixo, ligue-o apenas embaixo, na temperatura de 200 °C e deixe a grade mais baixa. Deixe esquentar por cerca de 15 minutos e coloque as formas.  Deixe assar por cerca de 50 minutos ou até dourar.   Se seu forno não tem as duas fontes de calor, faça igual.  Ou asse conforme as particularidades do seu forno, até dourar em cima e dos lados.  Não precisa de vapor. Depois de assado, desenforme e deixe esfriar sobre uma grade antes de partir. Se a casca ficar dura, coloque por cima um pano úmido enquanto esfria.

Obs. Se quiser fazer pão integral, substitua  ¼ da farinha branca por farinha integral ou de centeio. E acrescente nozes e passas, se gostar.  


Para a  cobertura tipo zebra ou tigre (tiger bread), faça assim
:   coloque em uma tigela ½ colher (sopa) de fermento biológico granulado e 70 ml de água. Misture bem e junte  1 colher (sopa) de óleo de gergelim, 1 colher (chá) de açúcar,  ½ colher (chá) de sal e 60 g de farinha de arroz (ou fubá – nesse caso, talvez precise de um pouco mais de água). Misture bem para ficar uma mistura cremosa. Espere o fermento agir e aplique com um pincel sobre a superfície do pão antes de levar ao forno.  Se usar essa cobertura, deixe dentro do forno nos primeiros 15 minutos uma vasilha ou assadeira pequena com água para fazer vapor – coloque no forno assim que ele for ligado para pré-aquecer. 

Abaixo, variações com a mesma massa. 







272 comentários:

  1. oi, neide, há tempos vinha acompanhando as tuas experiencias com este fermento, cada vez mais curiosa. vou testar por aqui. as temperaturas já não são tão altas, mas há de funcionar. se os pães saírem adequados para fazer fotos, como diz o título (he he) te mando fotos, se só saírem fofos, vai ser bem bom também. e obrigada, sempre, por fazer o trabalho da pesquisa e depois disponibilizar com tanta generosidade e didática o que aprendeu. saudade de você, de vocês. beijos, beijos. v.

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  2. Neide fiz o fermento e com 48h a garrafa tá cheia de gás e tinha subido um pouco da farinha mas tornou a assentar é assim meso, tenho que esperar os 7 dias?

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  3. Olá Neide. Faço Pão de Cristo há mais de 20 anos. Guardo o fermento em recipiente de vidro com tampa por vários meses na geladeira sem reformar e não estraga.O método de reforma do fermento é o mesmo que você faz. A receita do pão também é a mesma. A receita original do pão de cristo leva 19 colheres de sopa de açúcar. mas só uso 2 colheres. Quando mais açúcar mais fofo fica o pão.

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  4. Oi Neide!
    No caso de fazer a partir do levain, posso usar a partir da primeira vez?
    Ou preciso reformar algumas vezes antes de fazer pão?

    Obrigada!

    ResponderExcluir
    Respostas
    1. Oi, eu fiz o fermento de garrafa a partir do levain seguindo os ensinamentos da Neide no texto. Ficou fermentando por uma noite na garrafa, usei em seguida e deu muito certo. Fiquei bem feliz.

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    2. Fez aquela receita que ela ensinou antes do passo a passo? Que tem a opção com fermento granulado também? Fiquei curiosa para fazer essa versão!

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  5. Maravilhoso! Gratidão por sempre compartilhar suas experiências! Não tw conheço pessoalmente, mas amo e admiro seu trabalho! Deus te abençoe! Bjo

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  7. Neide boa noite, tudo bem??? Estou no 9° dia de fermento. Fiz em uma garrafa pet. Ele subiu nos primeiros quatro dias e depois desceu. A garrafa está estufada e cheia de gás. Ele não subiu novamente mas está cheio de bolhas no fundo da garrafa. Mantenha na fermentação até subir ou faço outro. Um enorme beijo...Grata por todas as dicas e helps...

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  13. Oi! Fiz sua receita do fermento, mas também tô num impasse. No segundo dia o trigo começou a boiar e a garrafa ficou rígida. Seguiu assim no terceiro dia. Hoje, quarto dia, a mistura tá no fundo da garrafa. Será que o processo foi mais rápido? Nos dois primeiros dias tivemos calorão por aqui, chegou a 35 graus...

    ResponderExcluir
    Respostas
    1. Oi Natália, aconteceu a mesma coisa com o meu e amanhã chego no sétimo dia. Estava esperando que q massa estivesse boiando. Na dúvida vou reformá-lo e esperar mais ;)

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