quinta-feira, 26 de setembro de 2019

Cará roxo amazônico. Coluna do caderno Paladar. Edição de 26 de setembro de 2019

Hoje é dia de coluna no Paladar. Reproduzo o texto aqui também. 

CARÁ ROXO DA AMAZÔNIA

Na feira do Ver o Peso, em Belém, os carás roxos geralmente aparecem abertos para exibir aos turistas a coloração atrativa. Caso contrário, se passariam por carás brancos, os mais comuns, que a gente encontra em todo canto. Já no Mercado Municipal de Porto Velho – RO, onde estive recentemente, carás roxos são expostos nas bancas sem nenhum alarde, afinal quando é tempo dele os compradores fieis já estão à espera.  Não reclamei por pagar na volta o excesso de peso da bagagem recheada de tucumã, farinha, queijo, mel, abiu etc. Só me arrependi de não ter trazido mais cará roxo. Como não havia nenhum aberto para eu ver a cor, apenas confiei no vendedor, que garantiu que me encantaria com o tom. De fato, os olhos brilharam quando abri o primeiro, que era de um roxo quase preto. Mesmo a água de cozimento ganha cor intensa – é impensável desprezar.

Já conhecia cará roxo, mas nunca tinha visto tão fortemente tingido. Há variedades com arroxeado fraco, quase como flor de lavanda.

A espécie nativa, Dioscorea trifida, à qual pertence a planta trepadeira que gera tubérculos amiláceos e viscosos quando crus, abriga muitas variedades ainda cultivadas pelos agricultores na Amazônia e que recebem nomes como rabo-de-mucura, roxão, pata-de-onça, macaxeira, durão, miguel, creme, alemão etc.  Nem imagino o nome da variedade do que comprei, mas asseguro que é riquíssimo em antocianina, o pigmento que dá a coloração e tem propriedade antioxidante - diminui a quantidade de radicais livres que se formam a todo momento no nosso organismo e estão relacionados a várias doenças decorrentes do desgaste celular.

A variedade de cará roxo foi domesticada por povos indígenas da região amazônica, entre Brasil e Guianas e atualmente faz parte da Arca do Gosto, catálogo do movimento Slow Food que visa identificar, mapear e registrar alimentos em risco de desaparecer. No caso do cará roxo, seu consumo hoje se dá principalmente ao redor das comunidades produtoras formadas por agricultores familiares, mas também aparecem nos mercados locais e está presente nos cafés regionais, simplesmente cozido com sal, como se faz também com o branco. Como aconteceu com muitas espécies nativas, a erosão genética, decorrente da imposição do cultivo de espécies convencionais, causou uma perda grande de biodiversidade, sendo que hoje muitas das variedades já não são mais cultivadas, com risco de se perderem.

E apesar da coloração belíssima, o cará roxo ainda aparece muito pouco em preparos além de sopas, cozidos e mingaus, sendo pouco conhecido e valorizado fora da região amazônica. Dentre os usos tradicionais que encontrei na Amazônia, está o cozido com peixe seco: Faça um refogado com cebola, tomate, sal, o cará roxo picado e água; junte o peixe seco já demolhado e cozinhe mais um pouco.

Enquanto isso, nos Estados Unidos, o cará roxo Dioscorea alata das Filipinas, primo do nosso, é chamado de ube e faz sucesso em doces, sucos cremosos, bolos, sonhos, tortas de queijo, sorvetes, cupcakes, donuts, coberturas de bolo, macarrão, panquecas e uma infinidade de pratos nos quais a aparência é quem  dá o tom – e que tom!  Em Portugal o mesmo cará é chamado de inhame-da-índia e também é tratado como ingrediente do desejo. Entre filipinos, o preparo mais famoso é chamado de ube halaya, doce em pasta feito com o cará cozido e ralado, leite condensado, leite evaporado, leite de coco, açúcar mascavo e bastante manteiga.  Faltou cará para testar o doce – mas você pode encomendar com a Antônia, do Empório Poitara (11. 97310-5024;  toni.ginger@gmail.comemporiopoitara.com.br ) .

Para além da questão estética, há o apelo funcional. Há vários alimentos brancos, verdes ou marrons, mais convencionais, que apresentam versões roxas.  São exemplos a uva, o repolho, a cebola, a batata, o milho, o arroz, a escarola, a endívia e a batata-doce, só para citar alguns. São sempre mais nutritivos que seus pares menos atraentes, pois a coloração roxa faz parte de um grupo de pigmentos fartos na natureza. As antocianinas, que conferem tons azuis, vermelhos, violetas e púrpuras a depender o pH do meio, agem como antioxidantes importantes que diminuem a quantidade de radicais livres que se formam a todo momento no nosso organismo e estão relacionados a várias doenças causadas pelo desgaste celular.

Em relação ao sabor, a antocianina não torna uma variedade melhor que outra sem a cor, mas o tom arroxeado nos torna propensos a supor um sabor mais encorpado, como no caso dos vinhos. No caso do cará roxo, a diferença de sabor se dá por características intrínsecas à variedade independente do pigmento  – tem sabor adocicado e textura mais fina, como a de uma batata com menos amido. De resto, apresenta a mesma viscosidade típica dos carás e apreciada na cultura japonesa  (lembrando que um parente dos carás nativos, de polpa branca, é também chamado de inhame no Norte e Nordeste e é reconhecido pelo tamanho mais avantajado, sem nos esquecer de que no Sul e Sudeste há outro tubérculo chamado de inhame ou taiá, das família das Aráceas, sem parentesco com o cará retratado aqui).

Já há estudos avaliando o potencial do amido deste tipo de cará para uso similar ao da maisena na cozinha, assim como seu aproveitamento na forma de farinha como ingrediente funcional na panificação. Por isto e porque faço pão toda semana, não tive como deixar de pensar em tingir e nutrir meu pão com o purê roxo desta variedade.   E como a antocianina ganha tons avermelhados intensos ao entrar em contato com meio ácido, a acidez da fermentação natural favoreceu a cor deixando o miolo do pão com este vermelho raro. 


Pão de cará roxo com fermentação natural

200 g de levain reformado e borbulhante
200 ml de água – corrija na hora de fazer de acordo com a umidade do legume e a marca da farinha usada (se quiser, use a água de cozimento do cará)  
200 g de cará roxo descascado, cortado em pedaços regulares e cozido em água até ficar macio (cerca de 20 minutos)  
½ colher (sopa) ou 10 g de sal
500 g de farinha branca, de preferência orgânica

Bata no liquidificador o levain com a água e o cará roxo cozido e frio. Passe para uma tigela e junte a farinha de trigo de uma só vez. Vá acrescentando mais água se for preciso para fazer uma massa homogênea e um pouco pegajosa como massa de pão de queijo.
Passe para outra tigela de vidro ligeiramente untada com azeite, feche bem ou cubra com pano úmido e espere 30 minutos.
Faça dobras na massa, espichando as bordas e dobrando para cima como se fosse um embrulho. Vire as dobras para a parte de baixo, espere meia hora.  Repita as dobras e a espera de 30 minutos mais três vezes.  
Depois da última dobra, espere mais meia hora, modele na forma de bola e coloque numa cestinha com pano enfarinhado. Cubra com plástico e espere crescer por cerca de 2 horas ou até que ao apertar o dedo na massa esta retorne rapidamente à posição inicial.
Preaqueça por cerca de 20 minutos o forno a 250 ºC (e, dentro dele, uma panela de ferro com sua tampa, que possam ir ao forno). Emborque a massa na panela bem quente (só enfarinhada), tampe e deixe assar por 20 minutos.
Destampe, abaixe a temperatura para 220 ºC e deixe assar mais 20 ou 30 minutos ou até dourar.  Tire do forno e passe para uma grade para esfriar. Só fatie depois de completamente frio. Sirva com manteiga e tirinhas de tucumã. Ou com o que quiser.



Obs. para responder às suas dúvidas sobre o levain e a técnica de assar com vapor, com ou sem panela, veja aqui

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