CARÁ ROXO DA
AMAZÔNIA
Na feira do Ver o Peso, em Belém, os carás roxos
geralmente aparecem abertos para exibir aos turistas a coloração atrativa. Caso
contrário, se passariam por carás brancos, os mais comuns, que a gente encontra
em todo canto. Já no Mercado Municipal de Porto Velho – RO, onde estive
recentemente, carás roxos são expostos nas bancas sem nenhum alarde, afinal
quando é tempo dele os compradores fieis já estão à espera. Não reclamei por pagar na volta o excesso de
peso da bagagem recheada de tucumã, farinha, queijo, mel, abiu etc. Só me
arrependi de não ter trazido mais cará roxo. Como não havia nenhum aberto para
eu ver a cor, apenas confiei no vendedor, que garantiu que me encantaria com o
tom. De fato, os olhos brilharam quando abri o primeiro, que era de um roxo
quase preto. Mesmo a água de cozimento ganha cor intensa – é impensável
desprezar.
Já conhecia cará roxo, mas nunca tinha visto tão
fortemente tingido. Há variedades com arroxeado fraco, quase como flor de
lavanda.
A espécie nativa, Dioscorea trifida, à qual pertence a planta trepadeira que gera
tubérculos amiláceos e viscosos quando crus, abriga muitas variedades ainda
cultivadas pelos agricultores na Amazônia e que recebem nomes como rabo-de-mucura,
roxão, pata-de-onça, macaxeira, durão, miguel, creme, alemão etc. Nem imagino o nome da variedade do que
comprei, mas asseguro que é riquíssimo em antocianina, o pigmento que dá a
coloração e tem propriedade antioxidante - diminui a quantidade de radicais
livres que se formam a todo momento no nosso organismo e estão relacionados a
várias doenças decorrentes do desgaste celular.
A variedade de cará roxo foi domesticada por povos
indígenas da região amazônica, entre Brasil e Guianas e atualmente faz parte da
Arca do Gosto, catálogo do movimento Slow Food que visa identificar, mapear e
registrar alimentos em risco de desaparecer. No caso do cará roxo, seu consumo
hoje se dá principalmente ao redor das comunidades produtoras formadas por
agricultores familiares, mas também aparecem nos mercados locais e está
presente nos cafés regionais, simplesmente cozido com sal, como se faz também
com o branco. Como aconteceu com muitas espécies nativas, a erosão genética,
decorrente da imposição do cultivo de espécies convencionais, causou uma perda
grande de biodiversidade, sendo que hoje muitas das variedades já não são mais
cultivadas, com risco de se perderem.
E apesar da coloração belíssima, o cará roxo ainda
aparece muito pouco em preparos além de sopas, cozidos e mingaus, sendo pouco
conhecido e valorizado fora da região amazônica. Dentre os usos tradicionais
que encontrei na Amazônia, está o cozido com peixe seco: Faça um refogado com
cebola, tomate, sal, o cará roxo picado e água; junte o peixe seco já demolhado
e cozinhe mais um pouco.
Enquanto isso, nos Estados Unidos, o cará roxo Dioscorea alata das Filipinas, primo do
nosso, é chamado de ube e faz sucesso
em doces, sucos cremosos, bolos, sonhos, tortas de queijo, sorvetes, cupcakes, donuts,
coberturas de bolo, macarrão, panquecas e uma infinidade de pratos nos quais a
aparência é quem dá o tom – e que
tom! Em Portugal o mesmo cará é chamado
de inhame-da-índia e também é tratado
como ingrediente do desejo. Entre filipinos, o preparo mais famoso é chamado de
ube halaya, doce em pasta feito com o
cará cozido e ralado, leite condensado, leite evaporado, leite de coco, açúcar
mascavo e bastante manteiga. Faltou cará
para testar o doce – mas você pode encomendar com a Antônia, do Empório Poitara
(11. 97310-5024; toni.ginger@gmail.com; emporiopoitara.com.br ) .
Para além da questão estética, há o apelo funcional. Há vários
alimentos brancos, verdes ou marrons, mais convencionais, que apresentam
versões roxas. São exemplos a uva, o
repolho, a cebola, a batata, o milho, o arroz, a escarola, a endívia e a
batata-doce, só para citar alguns. São sempre mais nutritivos que seus pares menos
atraentes, pois a coloração roxa faz parte de um
grupo de pigmentos fartos na natureza. As antocianinas, que conferem tons
azuis, vermelhos, violetas e púrpuras a depender o pH do meio, agem como antioxidantes
importantes que diminuem a quantidade de radicais livres que se formam a todo
momento no nosso organismo e estão relacionados a várias doenças causadas pelo
desgaste celular.
Em relação ao sabor, a antocianina não torna uma
variedade melhor que outra sem a cor, mas o tom arroxeado nos torna propensos a
supor um sabor mais encorpado, como no caso dos vinhos. No caso do cará roxo, a
diferença de sabor se dá por características intrínsecas à variedade
independente do pigmento – tem sabor adocicado
e textura mais fina, como a de uma batata com menos amido. De resto, apresenta
a mesma viscosidade típica dos carás e apreciada na cultura japonesa (lembrando que um parente dos carás nativos,
de polpa branca, é também chamado de inhame no Norte e Nordeste e é reconhecido
pelo tamanho mais avantajado, sem nos esquecer de que no Sul e Sudeste há outro
tubérculo chamado de inhame ou taiá, das família das Aráceas, sem parentesco
com o cará retratado aqui).
Já
há estudos avaliando o potencial do amido deste tipo de cará para uso similar ao
da maisena na cozinha, assim como seu aproveitamento na forma de farinha como
ingrediente funcional na panificação. Por isto e porque faço pão toda semana,
não tive como deixar de pensar em tingir e nutrir meu pão com o purê roxo desta
variedade. E como a antocianina ganha
tons avermelhados intensos ao entrar em contato com meio ácido, a acidez da fermentação
natural favoreceu a cor deixando o miolo do pão com este vermelho raro.
Pão
de cará roxo com fermentação natural
200 g de
levain reformado e borbulhante
200 ml de água
– corrija na hora de fazer de acordo com a umidade do legume e a marca da
farinha usada (se quiser, use a água de cozimento do cará)
200 g de cará
roxo descascado, cortado em pedaços regulares e cozido em água até ficar macio
(cerca de 20 minutos)
½ colher
(sopa) ou 10 g de sal
500 g de
farinha branca, de preferência orgânica
Bata no liquidificador o levain com a água e o cará roxo cozido
e frio. Passe para uma tigela e junte a farinha de trigo de uma só vez. Vá
acrescentando mais água se for preciso para fazer uma massa homogênea e um
pouco pegajosa como massa de pão de queijo.
Passe para outra tigela de vidro ligeiramente untada com azeite,
feche bem ou cubra com pano úmido e espere 30 minutos.
Faça dobras na massa, espichando as bordas e dobrando para cima
como se fosse um embrulho. Vire as dobras para a parte de baixo, espere
meia hora. Repita as dobras e a espera de 30 minutos mais três vezes.
Depois da última dobra, espere mais meia hora, modele na forma
de bola e coloque numa cestinha com pano enfarinhado. Cubra com plástico e
espere crescer por cerca de 2 horas ou até que ao apertar o dedo na massa esta
retorne rapidamente à posição inicial.
Preaqueça por cerca de 20 minutos o forno a 250 ºC (e, dentro
dele, uma panela de ferro com sua tampa, que possam ir ao forno). Emborque a
massa na panela bem quente (só enfarinhada), tampe e deixe assar por 20 minutos.
Destampe, abaixe a temperatura para 220 ºC e deixe assar mais 20
ou 30 minutos ou até dourar. Tire do
forno e passe para uma grade para esfriar. Só fatie depois de completamente
frio. Sirva com manteiga e tirinhas de tucumã. Ou com o que quiser.
Obs. para responder às suas dúvidas sobre o levain e a técnica de assar com vapor, com ou sem panela, veja aqui.
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