sexta-feira, 18 de dezembro de 2020

É tempo de araçaúna . Coluna do Paladar. Edição de 25 de novembro de 2020

 


É tempo de araçaúna

O tempo nas grandes cidades nos atropela e quando percebemos já passou a época da pitanga, da uvaia, da jabuticaba, da grumixama, do araçá, todas da mesma família das Mirtáceas. Elas chegam na sequência, às vezes as safras se sobrepõem. Em períodos de saúde, com mais caminhadas, ainda consigo observar esse movimento entre as árvores do meu bairro, mas aos poucos vamos perdendo essa percepção de que cada fruta tem sua hora.  Neste ano, só me dei conta que era tempo de araçá preto por causa de um araçazeiro do sítio, todo assanhado com frutas explícitas, roxas como jabuticabas e perfumadas como goiaba, muitas já no chão, trincadas com a queda. 

Há muitos anos, numa primavera de novembro, me deparei com uma espécie dessa numa calçada não muito distante de casa. Ainda era um pequeno arbusto, mas já prenhe de tantas frutas. Nunca mais tinha passado por ela na época da frutificação. Ou chegava no tempo das flores, ou os frutos jaziam no chão. Mas a frutificação do araçazeiro de nosso convívio e o sabor na boca chamando mais me fez querer aumentar a colheita para fazer sucos, geleias, caipirinhas, sorvetes e ainda congelar para a entressafra.  Então rumei até lá com uma pequena sacola e estava certa que agora, em plena estação, a traria cheia. Mas caminhei pela calçada e achei que tinha me distraído porque não vi a árvore. Será que cresceu tanto? Voltei, olhei atentamente e nada de araçá. Olho de um lado, de outro e nada. Havia um homem curioso debruçado sobre o muro da casa vizinha e tive que perguntar: - Não era aqui que vivia um certo araçá? - Uma frutinha preta? Era aí sim, nessa calçada. - O que aconteceu com ele? Ah, o dono arrancou porque fazia muita sujeira na calçada e os passarinhos eram uma algazarra só.  Agradeci a informação e engoli a seco a raiva que senti.  

 Assim vão se acabando nossas frutas nativas pelas ruas e quintais, nossos frágeis elos com uma Mata Atlântica distante e com o Cerrado quase inexistente, biomas que se faziam presentes em São Paulo e que por aqui vão deixando apenas rastros exíguos dando lugar a árvores disciplinadas que se encaixem retas nos pequenos quadrados de terra em chãos assépticos de shopping centers.  Enquanto isso, no supermercado em frente, frutas importadas já vão antecipando o Natal - cerejas, pêssegos, nectarinas, romãs entre outras.

 O Cemitério do Araçá, um dos maiores de São Paulo, recebeu o nome por causa da fartura de araçazeiros que havia por lá, mas a abrangência do nome hoje pode se estender por todo o país. Com a ameaça dos incêndios e a substituição das árvores nativas por pastagem e monocultura, frutas como araçá foram parar no catálogo da Arca do Gosto do movimento Slow Food, que procura destacar para proteger alimentos em risco de extinção.  E na cidade paulista Araçatuba, será que ainda tem muito araçá? Pois o nome, em tupi-guarani, quer dizer “lugar onde há muitos araçás”. Araçá + tyba, sufixo de abundância. Tomara que sim.

 Araçás são goiabinhas silvestres, frutos de árvores ou arbustos do gênero Psidium, o mesmo da goiabeira, e há uma diversidade grande deles Podem ser amarelos, vermelhos, roxos, pretos, pequenos, redondos, piriformes, com nomes variados - araçá-vermelho, araçá-de-cora, araçá-de-praia, araçá-do-campo, araçá-do-mato, araçá-pera, araçá-rosa, araçá-piranga, araçauna.

Em comum, os araçás apresentam uma roseta de sépalas junto ao cabinho, que lhes dão aparência de um olho redondo e os sabores sempre remetem à goiaba, podendo ser mais ou menos ácidos, doces e adstringentes.   

 As safras nem sempre são coincidentes. Agora estamos na estação de araçá preto, também conhecido como araçauna – una, em tupi-guarani, é preto.  Na verdade, não é preto, mas roxo escuro como a jabuticaba, com uma quantidade concentrada de antocianina, o mesmo pigmento protetor da saúde do coração presente também na jabuticaba, nas uvas e vinhos tintos. O fruto ao natural é pequeno, tem sementes maiores que as da goiaba, em pequeno número, que ocupam boa parte de seu peso, e é um pouco adstringente, característica que desaparece ou se dilui nos preparos culinários.  O sabor de goiaba pediu a companhia de um queijo, por isso pensei numa queijadinha com queijo fresco.



QUEIJADA COM CALDA DE ARAÇÁ

Calda de araçá preto ou araçaúna

300 g de araçás pretos

250 ml de água

100 g de açúcar

Massa

1 colher (café) de sal

100 ml de água quente

30 g de manteiga

200 g de farinha de trigo

200 g de queijo fresco

100 g de açúcar

2 ovos

1 gema

Calda de araçá: cozinhe os araçás na água por cerca de 15 minutos ou até ficarem macios. Passe-os por peneira para reter as sementes. Junte o açúcar à polpa peneirada e leve ao fogo médio. Cozinhe até formar uma calda grossa.  Com  uma colher, vá tirando a espuma que se forma na superfície. Espere esfriar. 

Queijada: misture a água quente com a manteiga e o sal. Mexa bem até a manteiga derreter. Espere amornar e junte à farinha. Misture bem, embrulhe em plástico e deixe em repouso em temperatura ambiente por meia hora. Enquanto isso, faça o recheio: passe o queijo por peneira grossa (de fritura) ou no ralador grosso ou simplesmente esmigalhe bem. Junte os ovos e o açúcar e misture bem.

Divida a massa em 12 bolinhas. Abra cada bolinha de massa até chegar a  um disco de 10 cm. Com os dedos, faça pregas nas bordas da massa, fazendo uma cestinha para conter o recheio. Distribua a mistura de queijo entre elas e leve para assar em forno médio (180ºC) por cerca de meia hora ou até a massa ficar assada e o recheio, dourado.  Sirva com a calda.

Rende: 12 queijadas  

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